Rotisserie Chicken-done your way, right away!

Nothing compares to a home roasted chicken!  If you haven't done this before, now is the time. I have included several techniques from Thomas Kellers Ad hoc and Bouchon cookbooks to give you a few options. 


First, when shopping for a whole chicken, look for one between 2-4 lbs. This is a perfect size for 2-4 people with leftovers.  You have a couple of options when roasting the chicken.  You can prepare it the same day or prep it in advance. 

Let stand room temperature between 30 min-2 hours (or until the chicken is room temp). Rinse it inside and out and dry thoroughly with paper towels. The drier it is the less steam it will produce, resulting in a crispy exterior. Stuff it with whole peeled garlic or herbs of choice and truss it. 

Trussing doesn’t have to be perfect. Some variations leave the wings flopped away from the body and the other pulls it close. I prefer keeping them close, but not required, since Thomas Keller shows it the first way.  Either way the point is to get your chicken (mainly breast and drumsticks) pulled close together to avoid drying it out. You’ll notice an immediate difference in its presentation once you tie it. Once it is trussed, generously sprinkle kosher salt and pepper over it. Don’t be shy!


 Here are some step-by-step photos to help you truss the chicken:

You'll need twine to truss the chicken.  Most kitchen stores carry it.
This spool was purchased at Sur La Table.

  

Variation 1:  Tuck the wings and place twine below wings

Variation 2:  Tuck the wings, but place twine underneath.  (Wilson preferred method)

Bring twine forward and tie knot at the breast.  This will cause it to plump.

Once the knot is secure, wrap twine beneath drumsticks. 

Next, tie another knot to secure the drumsticks. 

Once the knots are secure cut the excess twine.  The chicken is either ready
to be roasted or can be refrigerated uncovered for 1-2 days to dry out the skin.

Once the chicken is trussed, place it in a roasting pan or on a bed of your favorite vegetables (red potatoes, leeks, yellow onions, carrots, turnips, rutabagas, etc.) tossed in canola oil/salt/pepper. I prefer these two methods (pan or veggies) as this prevents grease splatter and seasons your vegetables wonderfully. 


Chef Keller recommends roasting in a cast iron pan.   I tried this one and it caused an oily disaster inside the oven.  Maybe I didn’t dry the chicken enough, but it was so messy that I'm not willing to try it again.  I'd only suggest using a cast iron pan if you prep a day or two prior and have left the chicken uncovered in your refrigerator to dry the exterior and give you that crunchy skin you’ve always dreamed of.  If you choose to do this, wait to season liberally with salt and pepper right before roasting. 

Cooking variations found throughout Thomas Keller's cookbooks:

4 lbs—475F for 25 min, then reduce to 400F for an additional 45 min

2-3 lbs—450F for 50-60 min

2-2.5 lbs—475F for 40 min

Tips: Check the temperature of the chicken after 30 minutes and then every 5-10 minutes or so between the leg and thigh. Should read 155F-160F and juices run clear.

I’ve found the times listed above to be more then enough. Last week we roasted a 4lb chicken and after 50 minutes the chicken read 193F.  I almost freaked out but stopped when we cut our first piece. It was still incredibly juicy!

Most importantly, wait at least 15 min after you remove the chicken from the oven to cut it. This gives the meat enough time to soak up all its juices, otherwise, it will end up all over your carving board.

If you make this once you’ll never go back to grocery store rotisseries. It’s fresh, simple, and delicious!  Enjoy!

-Kurtis

Putting the "right brain" to work

Last week I started my 4th class at Le Cordon Bleu:  Advanced Pattisserie (aka Plated Desserts).  I will be honest.  I do not proclaim to be the most creative person.  In fact, if I had to describe myself, "creative" probably would not land on a list of top 100 descriptions of Evangeline.   The best way to describe me would be to use an acronym:   OCD...optimistic, conscientious & dedicated.  You might think the acronym represents something else.  That too, I'll claim as a pretty accurate description of me; especially considering that lately the most stressful thing in my life right now is coming up with creative ways to plate my desserts.  (I know that last sentence probably makes you want to slap me.)  To say that I obsessed last week over plating ideas is truly an understatement.  

I am perplexed that when confronted with a dessert and a plate I lock up.  My brain freezes and I encounter what I'm dubbing as "platers block." For some strange reason I can't seem to find inspiration to pull the items together to create an "expensive" looking dessert.  In spite of my love for eating desserts, passion for baking, and zeal for photographing them I am learning that plating requires the use of a whole different part of my brain. Literally.  

I decided to take a few online tests to see if my gut feeling was right.  Sure enough, the first test I took rated that I was 58% left brained.  Thinking that maybe I was one of those "middle" brained people I decided I needed to take a second test.  This time the test consisted of 18 questions in which I unknowingly selected all the "left" brain responses .  If I averaged those scores it would make me about 78% left brained.  To be honest, I believe it!  

According to my new instructor, each of us will begin to develop our own style for plating desserts over time.   I find it interesting that the Chef believes that each of us has the capability of being creative.   What he said  reminded me of a quote by Michaelango,

“In every block of marble I see a statue as plain as though it stood before me, shaped and perfect in attitude and action. I have only to hew away the rough walls that imprison the lovely apparition to reveal it to the other eyes as mine see it.”

  Michelangelo started with something as simple as marble, but he knew that inside was a beautiful sculpture just waiting to be revealed.  In some way, I feel like I can relate to this quote.  I'm looking forward to chipping away the rigid pieces of my brain and unleashing my creative mind.  I know that deep inside there is some creativity within me.  I do have at least 22% of my "right" brain functioning.  I  just hope that this class lets me reveal it for others to see. 


For now, here are just a few of the desserts I've plated & presented to the Chef:

Creme Brulee

My first plated dessert of the term:  Creme Brulee served with
tuile cookie, caramel lattice & chocolate sauce

Creme Caramel with Blueberry Coulis & Candied Orange Peel

Here's what I presented to the Chef...I was not happy so when I got home...

I served Kurtis this version.  I liked this one MUCH better

Cheesecakes

Plain Cheesecake rolled in graham crackers drizzled with chocolate sauce

Plain Cheesecake rolled in graham crackers topped with blueberry coulis
& served with toasted graham cracker crumbles.

Introducing the Adventures of Kurtis & Thomas: Vol 1.

Kurtis at the first Starbucks in Pikes Market, Seattle

Welcome to a new blog column on flourbloom.com authored by me, Kurtis. Several weeks ago I had an urge to stop "throwing together" dinner. I had grown tired of over cooking chicken in a saute pan in order to get the inside done while Evangeline battled the smoke detector.  Or quickly slapping the vegetables in the microwave worrying which "side of the bag goes up," and then scrounging through the pantry looking for a decent starch.  We deserve more effort put into our meals. Something that high-fives your mouth and says great job today! Sometimes when I wanted to spice up dinner and surprise my wife, I'd drive to the grocery store and get one of those rotisserie chickens off the heated shelves in the deli department. It still had the "fresh" sticker on it so it must be true, right? "Wow, she's going to love this!" I'd think as I walked to the checkout line with a giant grin. 

Unfortunately, neither of us ever have! To date, I am 0 for 3 on getting a "delicious" rotisserie chicken. Each time it has been excessively dry and bland, probably from sitting out all day. I started to wonder, do famous chefs ever eat like this?  Would you ever see Thomas Keller walking out of a grocery store with a silly smile and a dry chicken in tow on his way to surprise his family?  

I'll be honest, most of the time I eat dinner just to get to the dessert. But eating a "blah" dinner and a phenomenal dessert from Evangeline's baking and pastry classes just didn't seem to match.  It didn't take too long to realize that dinner and dessert should both be appealing; not just one great moment but two! Like any restaurant experience it has to start right and end even better. A lot of times this requires a $100 meal out, but I had to find a way to do this myself to avoid going broke trying to satisfy our taste buds. That's when I started noticing our cookbooks and endless shelves of food magazines. I thumbed through Thomas Keller's French Laundry, Bouchon, and Ad hoc cookbooks and realized, like Julie and Julia, I could learn from his recipes and techniques.  (For the record, my wife forced me to watch that movie.) I found myself immediately inspired to read and do more. While a couple can spend upwards of $1,000 for a single evening at French Laundry, I could use the similar ingredients and basic techniques found within his cookbooks to make extraordinary meals. Why go searching random material online when I could learn from a proven legend? So begins the adventures of Kurtis and Thomas. Since I've started, it has drastically opened my eyes to a world that before I had just rushed by and never took the time to learn how to prepare restaurant quality food at home.  

A fun note, Anthony Bourdain, a well traversed chef himself, labeled French Laundry as one of the top 13 places to eat before you die.  Currently we are 1 for 13 on this list.  His #13 place, "Oklahoma Joes Barbecue" in Kansas City was in the back of a BP gas station. Naturally, we drove passed it,  but once we found it we realized how it earned its reputation. Best BBQ ever!  With such a diverse group of restaurants like these two, who knows, maybe our kitchen will become #14!

My portion of this blog will be tested and trusted material that I've learned among many different sources (cookbooks, magazines, television, friends, etc.) that can help you in your own kitchen. It will also be things that you may have cooked for 30+ years and didn't realize it could be made better (i.e. roasted or pan seared chicken, scrambled eggs).  Or even just a fun recipe, technique, or essential kitchen tool I find that you shouldn't live without. While Evangeline continues to expand your knowledge on cakes and pastries, my portion will lean more on the savory/culinary side. I'm hoping I can spark a desire in each of you to craft fresh and delicious food (don't just believe the sticker) and to prepare your meals with excitement and confidence rather than the same boredom and carelessness exerted during a mundane chore. Save that for the toilets!  

More cakes...

Hallo!
(That is Hello in Dutch!).

This week the flood gates opened and as you can see I definitely had more cake than I could handle!  I had to play a little Tetris in my refrigerator & my cake domes in order to find a home for each one, but I managed to find space for the Entremet, Chocolate Mousse, Carrot Cake & the Flourless Chocolate Cake.  This week's focus has been on all about assembling and decorating cakes. 


Previously, I had worked with Swiss Buttercream & French Buttercream.  This week I added a new variation of buttercream to my arsenal of frostings...Italian Buttercream (Check out the recipe below!).  I utilized this frosting for my Entremet (ahn-tra-mant) cake.  I liked the frosting because compared to the Swiss Buttercream it was a lot lighter in flavor.  This frosting is much more stable than the French Buttercream, so it was perfect for filling and icing the cake. 




Most of the cakes that we have made in this class required us to handle the egg yolks and egg whites in different stages.  Although not a complicated task, having to do a separated egg method can be tedious.  I found it refreshing when we made the carrot cake.  No more fancy steps...The carrot cake was extremely easy:  I simply combined the dry ingredients with the wet ingredients...stirred & then added to a pan. Wha-lah!  I was initially worried when the Chef said that we would be making carrots shaped from marzipan for the cake's decoration.  However, after seeing her demo, it turned out to be straight forward and fun.  It was almost like working with play-doh except when you eat it, it's sweet...not salty!   


To my surprise they turned out to be the cutest little things!  I was real happy with them and don't think I will make another carrot cake without having these cutie patooties on top.  Although the cake was good, I thought the recipe was a little too oily.  

In the past, I was never big on combining fruit and chocolate.  Prior to eating Chocolate Bouchons with an apricot puree at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Restaurant in Napa, I would have never thought to put the two together.  However, I found it interesting to see that one of the most famous Austrian desserts contained a combination of the two.

According the the Chef, the Sacher (pronounced soccer) cake was created in Vienna, Austria at the Sacher Hotel.  Apparently the secret has remained under lock and key to this very day so the variations of this cake are merely replicas.  The Chef was not a fan of the cake, but shared an interesting story about her experience with said cake.  During the time Arnold Schwarzenegger was Governor of California, she used to work at one of the hotels that was frequented by him and his dignitaries.  Being an Austrian, it seemed appropriate that he would always request this cake to serve at his gatherings.  I know he's probably not on many of y'alls good list considering the bad press he's had, but hey...if you were googling his name and stumbled on this blog....welcome! ) 

Each time I've explored a new bakery I get pretty excited when I recognize the items on the menu and actually know how to make them.   In fact, after learning about the Sacher cake discovered that I only lived 15 minutes away from an authentic Austrian Bakery which serves the cake!    There was not any Sacher Cake available the day I visited, but I really liked the place and plan to go back again.  I'm eager to see how my cake compares to one made by a true Austrian Pastry Chef.

Overall, I would say that this was another successful week down.  I only have 4 more days in this class before I start my mini-summer break.   In the meantime, while I'm getting ready for another 2 day practical this week I'm going to have a guest blogger.  

Until then, happy baking & if you're looking for a new frosting to try out here's a variation of the Italian Buttercream recipe that I learned to make in class.   

Tot ziens 

(good bye in Dutch)

Italian Buttercream

8 oz sugar

2 oz water

4 oz egg whites

1/2 tsp lemon juice

12 oz butter, softened

2 oz shortening

3/4 tsp vanilla

1.  Combine water & sugar in a sauce pan and boil until it reaches the soft ball stage (240 degrees F.).

2.  Place egg whites & lemon juice in a mixer and whip egg whites to a medium peak using a whisk attachment.  

3.  When the syrup reaches the proper temperature, pour the syrup in the mixing bowl.  Be certain to avoid hitting the whisk and allowing the syrup to pour along the sides of the bowl.

4.  Once all the syrup is added, increase the mixing speed to high.  Continue to whip at high speed until the bowl is cool to touch.  

5.  Next, reduce the mixer speed to medium and slowly incorporate softened butter.  When all the butter is incorporated add in the vanilla.  

A love for music and cake

I have spend the past several weeks trying to digitize my music collection so that I can finally get rid of the over 400 cds that I have been toting around for the past 16 years.  Some cds make me wonder what in world was I thinking when I purchased them (um, Paris Hilton...really? BUT... In my defense, the cd does have a couple of catchy songs)  ...and others bring a feeling of nostalgia (Was it really 1994 when I purchased Greenday's Dookie album?)  Just like my music collection has some hits and some misses so did the cakes that we prepared in school.  Since I have been surrounding myself with music, it seemed perfectly fitting that the two cakes I made this week were inspired by music...

The first cake we prepared was the Opera Cake.  Let me tell you...if Opera music sounded like this cake tasted, I would be an instant fan!  While there is some conflicting information online about the history of this cake, I learned that it was made in honor of the Paris Grand Opera House.  

This was the first time that I have had to write on my cake, so I did take a little time to practice spelling out "opera" and not "Oprah."  According to Chef, someone has done it before and I sure did not want to be that person...

Underneath the top layer, commonly referred to as Opera Glaze, are 3 layers of coffee soaked joconde sponge cake, 2 layers of coffee french buttercream, a layer of ganache, and 1 layer of thin chocolate.  An interesting fact about the Opera Glaze is that it is made up of dark chocolate chips and a small amount of vegetable oil.  Combining the two creates a glaze that allows for a clean and easy cut through the cake layers.   I adore chocolate and love coffee, but when these two are combined it sends my heart racing...and not because of the caffeine! 

As for the Dobos Torte, the cake gets its name from it's inventor Pastry Chef Jozsef C. Dobos.  Apparently this cake was modern for its time.  This five layered cake with chocolate buttercream between each layer was unlike any other cake in Europe.  During the late 1800s most cakes were filled with whipped creams or pastry cream (i.e. Bavarian Creme Cake).

The story behind the  caramelized coated slices is that it was used to help preserve the cake and seal in some of the moisture.  Oddly enough, the original cake did not have the sides of the cake covered.  I think seeing the separate layers is interesting, but I felt that the cake looked unfinished.  

So...after taking these pictures I decided to use the remaining chocolate buttercream to cover the rest of the cake and coat it with slivered almonds.  

Many people say that the Dobos Torte resembles a drum.  I can't see the association, but some of you may.  Ultimately it didn't matter if I liked Opera or drums, these cakes just were cute and fun to make.  The best part is that I was able to make them both faster than I can modernize my music collection...

Composition Cakes

For the past several months I had bragged to Kurtis that once he returned from his deployment he would be showered with tons of sweet treats.  During the last class, I kept that promise and filled our kitchen with plenty of croissants, pastries, and danishes.  However, in this class the nightly treats have come to a screeching halt.  Instead of bringing something home every night its more like every few days...rough, I know.

The European desserts that I have been making have one thing in common:   sponge cake.  This type of cake is important to use in these desserts because not only is it moldable, but a sponge cake also allows one to soak the layers with various dessert syrups or fillings.    Lately, I have been practicing the separated-egg sponge method.  This is where the egg yolks and egg whites are whipped separately and then the dry ingredients are folded in.  Here are a few of the cakes/desserts that I have been making that have utilized the separated egg sponge method: 

During week 2, I worked on a Bavarian Creme Cake.  This ONE cake comprised of 7 components:

1. Chocolate Sponge Roulade

2. Tuile Batter

3. Vanilla Bavarian Creme

4. Chocolate Dacquoise (meringue with folded almond flour & cocoa)

5. Raspberry Gelee

6. Chantilly Creme piped rosettes

7. Tempered Chocolate Triangles

I managed to prepare most of the components without anything catastrophic occurring.  That is until I was ready to assemble the cake... IF done properly, would have had five beautiful layers wrapped with a strip of chocolate sponge roulade cake.  

                            

                                 Bavarian Creme Cake layers:

{        Raspberry Gelee        }

{  Vanilla Bavarian Creme  }

{   Chocolate   Dacquoise   }

{  Vanilla Bavarian Creme  }

{Chocolate Sponge Roulade}

In my haste, I ended up trimming too much of my chocolate dacquoise.  So instead of it being a snug layer separating the bavarian creme, my dacquioise floated to the top of the bavarian creme.  While saddened by this mistake, I learned my lesson very quickly which has since come in handy.  


The chocolate we used to make the  chocolate triangles on top is known as couverture chocolate.  This is different from the coating chocolate chips found at craft stores.  I never really understood why good chocolate costs so much...that is until we learned to create decorative chocolate pieces.  


In order for it to have it's shiny appearance and crisp snap when eaten, the chocolate must undergo tempering.  Tempering is defined as....

"A process of delicately heating, cooling and reheating melted chocolate so that it will solidify in a stable crystal form. Proper tempering, when followed by proper cooling, provides shine and good eating properties. The temperatures involved are between 85° Fand 105°F, and need to be precise as different cocoa butters behave differently when they melt. A well - tempered chocolate will break cleanly, and be free of graininess" (Tempering Definition, TCHO 2011)

Failing to reach these proper temperatures causes the cocoa butter in the chocolate to surface leaving a whitish appearance.  This is known as bloom.  In just one afternoon of working with chocolate I have a greater respect for chocolatiers.  


Having this new found knowledge, I felt like a brainiac after a recent visit to my newest FAVORITE chocolate maker...TCHO   "The new American Chocolate" (located at Pier 17 in San Francisco).  This chocolate is simply amazing. *sigh* ...and I love their 30-day supply!    I believe Starbucks sells them, so even if you don't live near San Fran you can try them out.  I promise...it's unlike any chocolate you've tasted before. Once you try it, you'll look at chocolate with a new set of eyes and taste buds. 


Week 3 turned out to be the jackpot and just in time for a good friend's visit.  Each of these desserts had fewer components, but the techniques were similar when making Tiramisu, Charlotte Royal, and a Ho Hos Cake.  I did spend several days putting together the components of these two cakes.  But they proved to be worth the effort!  


Unlike the traditional layered tiramisu that I am used to eating, the version we made was comprised of a ladyfinger base, marscarpone mousse, wrapped with a piped ladyfinger trim, and dusted with cocoa powder.  I am in love with the piped ladyfingers. I think that they they give this tiramisu a more sophisticated look.  I was very pleased to see that I have been improving on my piping skills and received positive feedback from the Chef that my ladyfingers had great definition.  

I knew from the moment I saw the components for the Charlotte Royal I would love it.  The outer layer is made up of a joconde sponge cake (which typically includes ground almonds) and is filled with raspberry jam. The cake is rolled and cut into slices and then lined on the  inside of a bowl.  A raspberry bavarian creme is prepared and poured into the bowl and allowed to set over night.  The next day we trimmed the edges, unmolded the cake, and coated it with an apricot glaze.  It was unlike any cake I had ever tried before and very European.  

Lastly we made a "Ho Hos" cake.  Keeping in line with using a sponge cake, we prepared a jelly roll cake and filled it with chocolate French Buttercream and coated it with dark chocolate ganache.  This was by far my FAVORITE.  The French Buttercream was a little bit of a challenge.   I did not have the proper thermometer to check the temperature and had to verify if it had reached the "soft ball stage" by dropping some of the syrup into ice water.  I didn't like that method so the next time I had to make it I made sure that I brought a digital candy thermometer to class.  It made a world of a difference and the buttercream came out perfect the first time.  

I love this frosting so much I've decided to share the recipe.  If you have a digital candy thermometer on hand you won't have much trouble.  Of all the various types of buttercream, this one is the most unstable and should not be used to frost cakes.  Rather, it's used more as a filling.  


Even though I haven't been bringing as much home, I am learning a lot of different techniques and getting plenty of practice.  Most importantly, I can see how much I'm improving with each new day and am constantly reminded of how much I love what I'm doing.   

Chocolate French Buttercream

Adapted from Professional Baking, 2009. 

Yields: 1 lb 6 oz 

8 oz sugar

2 oz water

3 oz egg yolks

10 oz butter, softened

3/4 tsp vanilla

1.5 oz chocolate, melted

1.  Combine sugar and water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil until it reaches 240 degrees F or it  reaches a soft ball state.

2.  While syrup is boiling, beat egg yolks in a mixer on medium speed until it becomes thick and light.

3.  As soon as the syrup reaches 240 F., turn mixer on low and slowly stream syrup mixture in the bowl.  

4.  Continue to whip until the mixture is cool.  Once cooled, slowly add in butter a little at a time.  When butter is fully incorporated add in the vanilla and slowly add melted chocolate.  

Externship Goal: Achieved!

I can remember being 10 years old and receiving my first diary.  It was pink and had a tiny lock and key.  I would pour my little heart out onto those pages.  Initially I would write about my crushes, log the events of my days, or complain about my little sister trying to tag along with me.  As I got older and matured, so did my entries.  

One of the habits that I have had for many years is journaling out a list of goals.  I would often revisit them to check on my progress.  My favorite reason for establishing goals is that sense of accomplishment I get when I achieve them.  In times where I didn't accomplish my goals it's always interesting to see how much I have grown and changed my perspective on life. 

To this date, I had never shared my goals online, but in February I made a bold move to blog about my desire to complete my externship in France.  In that moment, I had hoped that by writing and sharing it with the blogging community it would keep me accountable.  To be honest, I was feeling demotivated because reaching this goal was more challenging that I expected.  Shortly after blogging, I shared my disappointment with a friend of mine and she responded, "Why would you want to go to France?  Holland is much better!" She told me her family had been visiting Tummers Patisserie for several years.  That night I looked it up online and fell in love...their desserts were simply beautiful, the patisserie was elegant, and they even had a tearoom!  I thought to myself, "The Netherlands is not France and I'm definitely no Julia Child, but if I had a little luck on my side I may get my chance to work overseas."  That's when I realized I needed to modify my goal.  I started the process optimistically, but knew that if it did not work out at least I tried. The worst that could happen is that they would say no.

With my friend's help, I was able to get in contact with the owners.  After several emails and a phone interview I received word via Skype that I would become part of the Tummers Patisserie & Passionelle team members.  During my externship I will not only have the opportunity to learn how to make European pastries, desserts and chocolate,  but I will also learn to  make Dutch speciality items such as the Oliebol, Kerststol, and Sinterklaas Dutch Chocolate Letters.

Cake & showpiece that won
Chef Jongsma the '09 Dutch Pastry Award

When I left the military to pursue this new career I was ready to dream big.  I had hoped for a chance to travel to Europe, but my little mind could have never imagined that I would be working in a patisserie that has been around since 1921.  Not only that, I will be working with Chef Daniel Jongsma, a Dutch world-champion patissier.   The picture below is the cake & showpiece he built during the 2009 Dutch Pastry Competition. 

Achieving this goal has reminded me to continue to dream & set big goals, work hard, and most importantly take action in order to make them come true. 

Now that I have achieved the first part of my goal, I think learning to speak a little Dutch before I start my externship will be a great addition to my goals.