Thursday, June 9, 2011

Composition Cakes

For the past several months I had bragged to Kurtis that once he returned from his deployment he would be showered with tons of sweet treats.  During the last class, I kept that promise and filled our kitchen with plenty of croissants, pastries, and danishes.  However, in this class the nightly treats have come to a screeching halt.  Instead of bringing something home every night its more like every few days...rough, I know.

The European desserts that I have been making have one thing in common:   sponge cake.  This type of cake is important to use in these desserts because not only is it moldable, but a sponge cake also allows one to soak the layers with various dessert syrups or fillings.    Lately, I have been practicing the separated-egg sponge method.  This is where the egg yolks and egg whites are whipped separately and then the dry ingredients are folded in.  Here are a few of the cakes/desserts that I have been making that have utilized the separated egg sponge method: 

During week 2, I worked on a Bavarian Creme Cake.  This ONE cake comprised of 7 components:


1. Chocolate Sponge Roulade
2. Tuile Batter
3. Vanilla Bavarian Creme
4. Chocolate Dacquoise (meringue with folded almond flour & cocoa)
5. Raspberry Gelee
6. Chantilly Creme piped rosettes
7. Tempered Chocolate Triangles

I managed to prepare most of the components without anything catastrophic occurring.  That is until I was ready to assemble the cake... IF done properly, would have had five beautiful layers wrapped with a strip of chocolate sponge roulade cake.  
                            
                                 Bavarian Creme Cake layers:

{        Raspberry Gelee        }
{  Vanilla Bavarian Creme  }
{   Chocolate   Dacquoise   }
{  Vanilla Bavarian Creme  }
{Chocolate Sponge Roulade}

In my haste, I ended up trimming too much of my chocolate dacquoise.  So instead of it being a snug layer separating the bavarian creme, my dacquioise floated to the top of the bavarian creme.  While saddened by this mistake, I learned my lesson very quickly which has since come in handy.  


The chocolate we used to make the  chocolate triangles on top is known as couverture chocolate.  This is different from the coating chocolate chips found at craft stores.  I never really understood why good chocolate costs so much...that is until we learned to create decorative chocolate pieces.  


In order for it to have it's shiny appearance and crisp snap when eaten, the chocolate must undergo tempering.  Tempering is defined as....
"A process of delicately heating, cooling and reheating melted chocolate so that it will solidify in a stable crystal form. Proper tempering, when followed by proper cooling, provides shine and good eating properties. The temperatures involved are between 85° Fand 105°F, and need to be precise as different cocoa butters behave differently when they melt. A well - tempered chocolate will break cleanly, and be free of graininess" (Tempering Definition, TCHO 2011)

Failing to reach these proper temperatures causes the cocoa butter in the chocolate to surface leaving a whitish appearance.  This is known as bloom.  In just one afternoon of working with chocolate I have a greater respect for chocolatiers.  


Having this new found knowledge, I felt like a brainiac after a recent visit to my newest FAVORITE chocolate maker...TCHO   "The new American Chocolate" (located at Pier 17 in San Francisco).  This chocolate is simply amazing. *sigh* ...and I love their 30-day supply!    I believe Starbucks sells them, so even if you don't live near San Fran you can try them out.  I promise...it's unlike any chocolate you've tasted before. Once you try it, you'll look at chocolate with a new set of eyes and taste buds. 


Week 3 turned out to be the jackpot and just in time for a good friend's visit.  Each of these desserts had fewer components, but the techniques were similar when making Tiramisu, Charlotte Royal, and a Ho Hos Cake.  I did spend several days putting together the components of these two cakes.  But they proved to be worth the effort!  


Unlike the traditional layered tiramisu that I am used to eating, the version we made was comprised of a ladyfinger base, marscarpone mousse, wrapped with a piped ladyfinger trim, and dusted with cocoa powder.  I am in love with the piped ladyfingers. I think that they they give this tiramisu a more sophisticated look.  I was very pleased to see that I have been improving on my piping skills and received positive feedback from the Chef that my ladyfingers had great definition.  

I knew from the moment I saw the components for the Charlotte Royal I would love it.  The outer layer is made up of a joconde sponge cake (which typically includes ground almonds) and is filled with raspberry jam. The cake is rolled and cut into slices and then lined on the  inside of a bowl.  A raspberry bavarian creme is prepared and poured into the bowl and allowed to set over night.  The next day we trimmed the edges, unmolded the cake, and coated it with an apricot glaze.  It was unlike any cake I had ever tried before and very European.  

Lastly we made a "Ho Hos" cake.  Keeping in line with using a sponge cake, we prepared a jelly roll cake and filled it with chocolate French Buttercream and coated it with dark chocolate ganache.  This was by far my FAVORITE.  The French Buttercream was a little bit of a challenge.   I did not have the proper thermometer to check the temperature and had to verify if it had reached the "soft ball stage" by dropping some of the syrup into ice water.  I didn't like that method so the next time I had to make it I made sure that I brought a digital candy thermometer to class.  It made a world of a difference and the buttercream came out perfect the first time.  



I love this frosting so much I've decided to share the recipe.  If you have a digital candy thermometer on hand you won't have much trouble.  Of all the various types of buttercream, this one is the most unstable and should not be used to frost cakes.  Rather, it's used more as a filling.  


Even though I haven't been bringing as much home, I am learning a lot of different techniques and getting plenty of practice.  Most importantly, I can see how much I'm improving with each new day and am constantly reminded of how much I love what I'm doing.   


Chocolate French Buttercream
Adapted from Professional Baking, 2009. 
Yields: 1 lb 6 oz 

8 oz sugar
2 oz water
3 oz egg yolks
10 oz butter, softened
3/4 tsp vanilla
1.5 oz chocolate, melted


1.  Combine sugar and water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil until it reaches 240 degrees F or it  reaches a soft ball state.

2.  While syrup is boiling, beat egg yolks in a mixer on medium speed until it becomes thick and light.

3.  As soon as the syrup reaches 240 F., turn mixer on low and slowly stream syrup mixture in the bowl.  

4.  Continue to whip until the mixture is cool.  Once cooled, slowly add in butter a little at a time.  When butter is fully incorporated add in the vanilla and slowly add melted chocolate.  




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